Healthy hair

Before shampooing, brush hair gently to remove tangles and loose dirt. Doing this with your head bent towards the floor will give the scalp an extra boost, stimulating blood circulation.

Avoid very hot or cold water, lukewarm is best. Wet hair and, using the pads of your fingertips, massage shampoo into the scalp. Rinse hair thoroughly.

The shampoo will travel down the length of your hair. 

After all traces of shampoo have been removed, blot dry with a towel and apply one tablespoonful of conditioner to long hair, a teaspoon for short hair.

Comb through hair, starting at root ends and rinse again. Wrap a warm towel around the head to absorb excess moisture. Do not pull or rub hair as it is at its weakest when wet. Allow air to dry naturally whenever you can. Use a hairdryer on nearly dry hair for best results. 

Afro hair  

Black curly hair is a very effective block against the damaging rays of the sun and keeping the head cool. However the structure means that the hair is often very dry as the curl allows the moisture to escape from the hair shaft. The way the curls loop into each other and get tangles means that the hair is also more brittle. 

Although the hair is dry it does not follow that the scalp is also dry. The common mistake is to apply lots of oils to dry hair on a greasy scalp which serves only to block the follicles. Treat greasy skin before hair washing by separating the hair into sections and dabbing cotton wool soaked in orange flower water along the partings. This will lift excess oil and tone the skin. Shampoo gently and after rinsing thoroughly apply conditioner to the hair, not the scalp. 

For dry skin, massage oil well into scalp and leave on for five to ten minutes before shampooing and apply a conditioner. Preparations containing jojoba are good for Afro hair, which also benefits from a weekly henna wax conditioning treatment. 

Dry hair  

Hair that is naturally dry is generally coarse due to fewer follicles and fewer oil glands. Hair also becomes drier as we age and the production of sebum (oil) slows down. Hair may also become dry due to damage such as perms, too harsh or hot blow drying, harsh shampoos and lack of good grooming. 

Symptoms

Dry hair tends to be coarse, brittle and easily damaged. The scalp may we tight and flaky. Curly hair is often dry (see Afro hair). 

Actions 

• Wash regularly – dry dirty hair is fragile and tends to snarl and split easily. 

• Before washing massage the scalp with oil. 
• Use conditioner after every wash.  
• Avoid heated rollers and hairdryers.  
• Use gel and scrunch dry to hair to protect it and make it shiny. 

Greasy hair 

This is common with fine hair because of more numerous follicles pumping out sebum. Hormonal imbalances especially during adolescence also speeds up oil production. Poor diet and stress can also contribute to this condition. 

Symptoms

Lank, dull and stringy hair which doesn't hold a style well. Unless washed frequently, hair becomes smelly as it traps oil, sweat, dirt, dust and food odours. 

Actions

• Wash frequently. 

• Avoid rich, fatty foods. 
• Try to expose the hair to at least half an hour of fresh air every day.  
• Use conditioner on the ends of long hair. 

Premature Balding in women  

With contributions by trichologist Glen Lyons. 

Glen Lyons is a partner at the Philip Kingsley Clinic at 54 Green Street, 

London W1 tel: 0207 629 4004 

www.philipkingsley.co.uk  

Trichologist Glen Lyons is involved in a research project on premature balding at St Mary's Hospital, London. He says that the majority of hair loss in women is temporary, for instance after chemotherapy or having a baby and this is something that will correct itself. The hair follicle has not been altered and hair will grow back. However women who have a genetic predisposition to early hair loss have a very different problem. 

“It isn’t just older women who suffer – it’s a young person’s problem as well. In the last 10 to 12 years there's been a steady increase in 17 to 20 year olds suffering from genetic hair loss. These women have inherited a family gene making them lose hair. The catalyst for this hair loss is male-hormone dependent but in the vast majority of cases women don’t show increased levels of male hormone. It is the hair follicles that become extra sensitive to the male hormone plus this genetic tendency.” 

The hair follicle gradually changes over a number of years. It becomes smaller and finer until the follicle eventually gives up. In the first instance you may look along a parting and see odd gaps. What you don’t see is lots of hair coming out when you wash or brush your hair. In younger women this baldness may be caused by stress but women have to have the genetic tendency related to previous generations. For example, a grandparent may have lost hair early in life. Maintaining a healthy head of hair is also dependent on diet and having good stores of iron in the body. 

“There are other signs that may alert a trichologist. Whereas 95 per cent of women who present with premature balding have normal levels of male hormone, we would be suspicious of elevated levels in women with bad  skin and acne, facial hair and irregular periods.” 

Therapy

Some menopausal women are offered HRT for hair loss but for these women and younger women on some combined contraceptive pills, the progesterone contained in this treatment may worsen the hair loss. Some preparations are okay so it’s wise to discuss this with your GP of family planning clinic, advises Glen Lyons. 

Women are now offered anti-androgen therapy topically – that is it is massaged into the affected areas of the scalp every day. This acts as a blocking agent around the follicle, which will prevent further hair loss.

“You will not be able to get all the hair back,” says Glen. “Older women usually get 20 per cent regrowth but younger women don’t respond so well and only have about ten per cent.” 

What else can you do?

Try to make the most of the hair you have. Glen Lyons suggests – 

• highlights can give the hair the appearance of more body 
• daily washing will improve the look – greasy hair will make hair loss more obvious use brushes with prongs wide apart. Bristle brushes with little space between them can break the hair and so make the problem appear worse 
• use a saw-cut vulcanised rubber comb. Combing is preferable especially when the hair is wet 
• begin combing at the ends so as not to stress the hair. 
• when using a brush for styling be gentle and use only medium heat on a hairdryer 
• consult a nutritionist for optimum advice on your diet. 

Hair facts

• Your tresses grow about half an inch per month. 

• We lose between 150 and 300 hairs a day so don’t panic when you brush your hair. 
• Hair stays on your head from two to six years before falling out. 
• After the age of 30 bodies produce less melanin pigment which gives colour to the hair so it gradually fades to grey. 

Home-made treatments

• Hot oil treatment 

• To improve dry hair, warm a little almond or olive oil then massage into hair, wrap head in plastic or foil then a warm towel and leave for half an hour before shampooing.
• Body builder 
• Egg yolks mixed with diluted shampoo is great for greasy hair followed by a lemon juice rinse. 

Top tips to set you a cut above the rest 

• Be sparing with shampoo 

• Put about a teaspoonful in the palm of your hand, dilute with a little water then apply to the roots and scalp and work through the hair. You only need to shampoo once. 
• Vitamin B supplements can work wonders on hair condition  ; try brewers yeast tablets for a cheaper alternative. 
• No time to wash long hair? 
• Cut a lime into thin slices and rub thoroughly over the scalp for hair to become clean and fresh smelling. 
• Swimming is great exercise but chlorine in the water is damaging to hair. 
• If you don’t like to wear a cap, apply a hair gel that protects against chlorine before your dip and wash thoroughly afterwards. 
• Wash hair brushes and combs at least one a fortnight in warm soapy water. 

Getting the best cut from your hairdresser  

It’s worth investing in a good cut but expensive doesn’t always equal excellent. Many people come out of a hairdressers wondering why they ever went in. You go in for a trim and come out with a crop. Don’t stay with a stylist through guilt, misplaced loyalty or lethargy. 

1. Making an appointment in person gives you an idea of what you’re dealing with. 
2. Ask for a consultation – remember that if it’s a busy period for them you may be asked to return at a more convenient time. 
3. If you can relate to the stylist and what he or she says, make an appointment. If not, thank them and leave – you’re under no obligation to have your hair done there. 
4. Always allow adequate time for what you’re about to have done. It’s bad management on behalf of the hairdressers if you’re still waiting a long time after your appointment was due. On the other hand, let the stylist know if you’re in a particular hurry. 
5. If you’ve seen a style you like, take along a photograph for reference. But be flexible – the style may not suit your face shape or hair type. 
6. While you’re having your hair done the stylist may offer you other treatments. Never be afraid of asking the price. If you don’t want it or can’t afford it, say no. 
7. Many hairdressers offer an after care service which can be anything from a free after perm conditioning treatment to a problem-solving session or a free fringe trim when you don’t want a full cut. 
8. If you’re unhappy with your hair for whatever reason go back to the stylist and give them her the chance to put things right or offer advice. 

Colouring

Permanent hair dyes may cause allergic reaction so always follow the maker’s instructions and strand test first. Hair colourings these days are gentle on the hair and usually contain a conditioning treatment to leave hair soft and silky. 

If you don’t fancy regrowth roots, try a semi-permanent colour that gradually washes out and fades away. For the more adventurous there’s a huge range of temporary tints lasting from one to six shampoos. 

Head lice  

Head lice love clean short hair! As anyone with children in school or nursery knows, lice love everybody irrespective of class or race. 

Effective preparations are available from your pharmacist. These are very strong chemicals and are often alternated in particular areas so that the lice don’t become resistant to them. Tea tree oil preparations are very good both as a preventative measure and a treatment. A vinegar solution will also help remove the eggs – pour about a cup full over the hair to help remove the eggs. 

Fine combing is now highly recommended. Wash hair and towel dry before applying a thick coat of conditioner. Then using a special fine toothed comb, part the hair in sections and comb from root to tips. This needs to be done every two or three days for a couple of weeks to ensure that all lice are removed. Remember that everyone in your household must be treated whichever remedy you choose. If your child has lice, inform the school so that all parents are alerted.